Opera (9th Arrondissement)
The 9th is a busy, practical base for families: department stores, the big metro hub at Opéra and the RER A straight to Disneyland Paris are all on the doorstep. Parisians come here to shop and work, so the streets are lively by day and well lit at night.
With children, start with the free views from the roof of Galeries Lafayette, then go inside the Palais Garnier to see the grand staircase and hear the story of the Phantom's lake. After lunch, walk along the Grands Boulevards to the Musée Grévin, a wax museum that most children find more fun than any art gallery, and the covered passages next to it.
The honest downside: there are few green spaces, and the boulevards are crowded and noisy on Saturdays. Choose a hotel on a side street and plan park time elsewhere.
Local picks
For Family- 1Morning viewGaleries Lafayette roof terraceTake the escalators to the top of the Haussmann store for a free terrace view over the Opéra and the rooftops of Paris. Children also love the huge glass dome in the main hall. The store opens at 9.30 am, 11 am on Sundays.
2Must seePalais GarnierThe opera house is open for visits most days when there is no rehearsal. Kids head straight for the golden grand staircase and the box linked to the Phantom of the Opera story. Buy tickets online to skip the queue.
3Covered passagePassage JouffroyA 19th-century glass-roofed arcade opposite the Grévin, full of old-fashioned shops including toys and dolls' houses. It is a dry, traffic-free walk on a rainy day.
4Kids’ favouriteMusée GrévinHundreds of wax figures, from French kings to footballers and film stars, and a mirrored Palace of Mirages show. Plan about 90 minutes and book online — it is busy on weekends and school holidays.
5Lunch or early dinnerBouillon ChartierA huge, noisy dining room from 1896 with waiters in black waistcoats and cheap classic dishes like egg mayonnaise and roast chicken. It is open all day, which makes it easy with children, but expect a queue at peak times.- 6Sweet treatÀ la Mère de FamilleThe original shop of this chocolate and sweet maker on Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, with old wooden shelves and jars of sweets. Let each child pick one thing.
7Let off steamSquare MontholonA short walk north, this small green square is where local families go after school. It is a good place to let children run before heading back to the hotel.- Getting aroundOpéra · Auber · Grands BoulevardsMetro lines 3, 7 and 8 stop at Opéra, and the RER A at Auber runs directly to Disneyland Paris. Grands Boulevards (lines 8 and 9) is next to the Grévin. Many stations have stairs, so a light pushchair helps.
- Where to stayThe 9th has plenty of mid-range and chain hotels, many on busy boulevards. With children, look for a side street and ask for a room away from the street; check that the room really sleeps three or four, as many Paris doubles are small.
Did you know?
| A lake under the Opéra A large water tank was built beneath the Palais Garnier to steady its foundations — it inspired the Phantom’s underground lake. |
| Chagall's ceiling Marc Chagall painted the colourful ceiling of the auditorium in 1964. |
| Wax museum since 1882 The Musée Grévin opened in 1882, named after the cartoonist Alfred Grévin who designed its first figures. |










