Trocadéro (16th Arrondissement)
Trocadéro is the Paris of embassies, doormen and wide Haussmann avenues, where residents walk their dogs across the esplanade on Sunday mornings. It is also where you get the straight-on view of the Eiffel Tower across the Seine, which is why you are here.
Why it still works for LGBTQ+ travellers: the mornings are superb, and the neighbourhood has one stop that means a lot to anyone queer and into fashion — the Musée Yves Saint Laurent, in the couture house Saint Laurent ran with his partner Pierre Bergé. Have breakfast on Place du Trocadéro, read the inscriptions on the human-rights Parvis, then walk down Avenue du Président-Wilson to the museums. In the evening, metro line 9 and line 1 get you to the Marais bars in about half an hour.
The downside: there is no scene here at all, and the neighbourhood is formal and goes to bed early. Expect to take a taxi home from the Marais.
Local picks
For LGBTQ+- 1BreakfastCaretteThe pâtisserie and tearoom on Place du Trocadéro opens at 7.30 am. Take a terrace table and watch the square wake up before the coaches arrive.
- 2Human rightsParvis des Droits de l’HommeThe terrace between the two wings of the Palais de Chaillot is officially the esplanade of liberties and human rights. The UN adopted the Universal Declaration of Human Rights in this palace in 1948.
3Quiet cornerJardins du TrocadéroWalk down past the big fountain into the side paths of the gardens, where it is shady and far quieter than the terrace above. Bring a coffee from the square and take one of the benches under the trees.- 4The viewEiffel Tower viewpointFrom the lower gardens the tower fills the whole frame across the river. Early morning is the best time for photos without a crowd behind you.
5AfternoonPalais de TokyoA big contemporary art centre on Avenue du Président-Wilson, open from noon until midnight and closed on Tuesdays. Exhibitions change all the time, so there is usually something provocative on.- 6Fashion historyMusée Yves Saint Laurent ParisThe museum fills the mansion at 5 Avenue Marceau where Saint Laurent had his couture salon from 1974 to 2002. Pierre Bergé, his partner in life and business, set it up; check opening days on its website before you go.
- 7Dinner with the towerCafé de l'HommeThe restaurant in the Musée de l’Homme wing of the Palais de Chaillot looks straight at the tower. It is open from noon until late — book a table for after dark, when the tower sparkles on the hour.
- Getting aroundTrocadéro · lines 6 and 9For the Marais, take line 9 to Franklin D. Roosevelt and change to line 1 for Hôtel de Ville — about half an hour. Line 6 runs to Charles de Gaulle–Étoile and across the river to Bir-Hakeim.
- Where to stayTrocadéro has classic mid-size and luxury hotels in Haussmann buildings, plus aparthotels on the side streets. Pay extra only when the room itself has the tower view, and stay close to a line 9 station so the ride to the Marais is simple.
Did you know?
| Human rights adopted here The UN General Assembly adopted the Universal Declaration of Human Rights at the Palais de Chaillot on 10 December 1948. |
| A palace built for 1937 The Palais de Chaillot was built for the 1937 International Exposition, replacing the Palais du Trocadéro of 1878. |
| Saint Laurent’s couture house Yves Saint Laurent ran his haute couture salon at 5 Avenue Marceau from 1974 to 2002; it opened as his museum in 2017. |











